Asparagus Crowns 'Erasmus'

Where to Plant

Choose a permanent, sunny position, ideally sheltered from strong winds, with fertile, well-drained soil. Asparagus grows best in its own dedicated bed, where the roots can develop undisturbed. Avoid replanting in an old asparagus bed, as soil-borne pests and diseases can build up over time.

Preparing the Soil

Remove perennial weeds and work well-rotted garden compost or manure into the soil before planting. Good drainage is essential, particularly through winter. If you have heavy clay soil, consider a raised bed. Asparagus prefers neutral to slightly alkaline soil, but only add lime if a soil test shows it's needed.

When to Plant Asparagus Crowns

Plant your asparagus crowns as soon as possible after delivery in April, provided the soil is workable and not waterlogged. If conditions are unsuitable, keep the crowns protected until you can plant them.

How to Plant Asparagus Crowns

For a traditional asparagus bed, dig a trench approximately 30cm wide and 20cm deep. Make a small mound of soil along the bottom, then place each crown on top with the growing points facing upwards. Spread the roots gently over the mound without bending or breaking them.

Space crowns 30–45cm apart, allowing around 90cm between traditional rows. Cover the crowns initially with approximately 5cm of soil and water well, gradually filling the trench as the shoots develop until the soil is level with the surrounding bed.

For a compact, staggered planting arrangement in a dedicated bed, position crowns 30–45cm apart with rows approximately 45cm apart. Allow enough space for the mature foliage to develop.

Growing in Raised Beds

Raised beds are particularly useful where drainage is poor. Choose a deep, permanent bed with enough space for the roots to spread and the mature foliage to develop.

Growing Asparagus in Containers

Asparagus can be grown in large containers if garden space is limited, although it generally performs better in the ground. Choose a container at least 30cm wide and deep, with drainage holes, and plant one crown per container. Larger containers are preferable for long-term growing, giving the extensive roots more space to develop. Container-grown plants need more regular watering and feeding and generally produce smaller harvests over a shorter lifespan.

Watering & Feeding

Water regularly during the first summer, particularly in dry weather. Once established, asparagus is fairly drought tolerant but will benefit from watering during prolonged dry spells.

Apply well-rotted garden compost or manure as a mulch in late winter to help maintain soil fertility. If plants need an additional boost, use a balanced fertiliser in spring, following the manufacturer's instructions.

Keeping the Bed Weed Free

Keep the bed free from weeds, especially while the crowns are establishing. Remove weeds carefully by hand rather than hoeing close to the plants, as asparagus roots can be damaged.

Summer Fern Growth

Allow the spears to develop into tall, feathery foliage during summer. These fern-like stems help the plant build up energy reserves for the following spring. In exposed gardens, use stakes and twine to support the foliage if necessary.

Autumn & Winter Care

Leave the foliage while it remains green. Once it has naturally turned yellow or brown in autumn, cut the stems down to ground level and remove the old growth from the bed.

Pests & Problems

Watch for asparagus beetles, which feed on stems and foliage, and slugs or snails that may damage emerging spears. Late spring frosts can also affect young shoots. Avoid waterlogged soil, as this increases the risk of crown and root rot.

When to Harvest Asparagus

Established 'Erasmus' plants can produce purple spears from April onwards, depending on spring temperatures and growing conditions. Once the bed has completed its establishment period, begin with a shorter picking period of around six weeks. In subsequent years, a healthy, established bed can be harvested for up to eight weeks.

How to Harvest Asparagus Spears

Pick young spears when they're approximately 15–18cm tall and the tips are still tightly closed. Use a sharp knife to cut carefully at or just below soil level, taking care not to damage nearby shoots or the crown.

When to Stop Harvesting

Finish harvesting by late June, traditionally around the longest day. Leave the remaining spears to develop into feathery foliage, allowing the plants to replenish their energy reserves for the following spring.

Top Tip

Asparagus can grow surprisingly quickly during warm spring weather. Check established beds regularly when growth is rapid, and pick while the spear tips are still tightly closed.

Flavour & Texture

'Erasmus' has a particularly sweet flavour and tender texture, with thick, succulent spears that need very little preparation. Its natural sweetness makes it an excellent choice for fresh spring dishes.

Nutritional Benefits

Asparagus provides folate and dietary fibre, along with vitamins including vitamin K. It's a nutritious addition to spring meals.

Preparing Your Asparagus

Rinse the spears under cold water and trim away any tough or woody ends. Young, tender 'Erasmus' spears can often be eaten without peeling.

Cooking Ideas

Enjoy fresh purple asparagus raw in salads, serve whole spears with dips or shave them into ribbons with a vegetable peeler. The rich purple colour is best preserved when eaten raw, as cooking can turn the spears green.

For a warm dish, briefly grill or stir-fry the spears with a little olive oil, garlic or lemon. They also work well in risottos, pasta dishes, omelettes and savoury tarts.

Storing Your Harvest

Asparagus is at its best soon after picking. If you can't use it straight away, refrigerate the spears with their cut ends wrapped in damp kitchen paper, or stand them upright in a little water. Use within a few days for the best flavour and texture.

Freezing Asparagus

To freeze asparagus, wash and trim the spears, blanch briefly in boiling water, then cool quickly in iced water. Drain thoroughly before freezing in suitable containers or freezer bags. Frozen asparagus is best used in cooked dishes, as the texture softens after thawing. The purple colour may also fade during blanching.

What Will I Receive?

Your asparagus is supplied as two-year-old, dormant bare-root crowns, each with a central growing point and a network of fleshy roots. They won't look like leafy asparagus plants when they arrive, which is completely normal.

Why Choose an All-Male Asparagus Variety?

Asparagus plants can be male or female. Female plants produce berries and seeds, while male plants generally put more energy into growing spears. All-male varieties such as 'Gijnlim' are bred for productive cropping, with fewer unwanted seedlings appearing in your asparagus bed.

Allowing Your Asparagus Bed to Establish

Although your crowns are already two years old when supplied, they still need time to settle into their new growing position. Leave the spears unharvested during their first season in your garden, allowing them to develop tall, fern-like foliage that helps build up energy reserves for future crops.

Can I Harvest in the Second Year?

If your plants are growing strongly and producing plenty of healthy spears, you may be able to enjoy a small harvest in their second spring in your garden. Keep picking light and allow the remaining spears to develop into foliage. If growth is limited, leave all the spears to help the crowns establish.

When Can I Start Harvesting?

Your two-year-old asparagus crowns already have a head start. Give them their first season to settle in and develop strong roots. Depending on how well they establish, you may be able to take a small harvest the following spring, with more regular harvests as the plants mature.

Unpacking Your Crowns

Open the packaging promptly after delivery and check the crowns. Keep the roots protected from drying out and handle them gently to avoid breaking the fleshy roots.

Preparing Your Crowns Before Planting

Plant as soon as possible after delivery. If the roots feel dry, soak them briefly in water before planting to help rehydrate them. Avoid leaving the crowns submerged for prolonged periods.

If You Can't Plant Straight Away

Keep the crowns somewhere cool, sheltered and frost-free, with the roots lightly moist but not waterlogged. If planting will be delayed for more than a few days, temporarily heel them into moist compost or soil until the permanent bed is ready.